Measure Thrice Press

Get Set Up

Everything you need to make your first leather notebook cover. Trusted tools and materials we use ourselves — nothing unnecessary, nothing missing.

What You Need

Three levels of setup. Start with what you have — upgrade as you go.

The Kitchen Table

Under £15

Everything you need to make your first cover.

  • Stanley knife or box cutter£3–5

    A fresh, sharp blade is essential. Don’t try this with a dull one — it’ll skip and tear rather than cut cleanly.

  • Metal ruler (30cm min, 60cm ideal)£3–5

    Must be metal. A plastic ruler will last approximately one cut before you slice through it. A cork-backed ruler is even better (see Tier 2).

  • Cutting mat (A3 minimum)£5–8

    A self-healing cutting mat protects your table and keeps your blade sharp. A4 will do for passport and Field Notes sizes.

  • Rotary hole punch£3–6

    The revolving kind with a wheel of different hole sizes. Simple, effective, and available from any craft shop. Not strictly required — can cut holes with the sharp knife.

  • Biro or pen£0

    For marking on the flesh (suede) side of the leather. Any ballpoint pen works — the marks won’t be visible on the finished cover.

  • Lighter£1

    A standard disposable lighter for sealing the cut ends of the elastic cord. Brief touch — just enough to melt the fibres.

Top Tip — Sharp Blades Are Safer Blades

This sounds counterintuitive, but a razor-sharp blade is significantly safer than a dull one. A sharp blade goes exactly where you direct it, with minimal pressure. A dull blade requires force, and force is what causes slips. Start every project with a fresh blade.

The Committed Crafter

£15–£40

The upgrades that make you wonder how you managed without them.

Additional cost on top of Tier 1.

  • If the Stanley knife is a bicycle, the rotary cutter is a car. Long, straight cuts become effortless. The 45mm blade is the most versatile.

  • Cork-backed metal ruler (60cm)£8–12

    The cork backing grips the leather and stops the ruler sliding mid-cut. Once you’ve used one, you’ll never go back.

  • Japanese screw punch£10–15

    Also called a bookbinding punch. Makes cleaner, more precise holes than the rotary punch, with interchangeable tips for different sizes.

  • More on this in Chapter 7. Runs along the cut edge of the leather and slices away a tiny strip, rounding the edge for a professional finish.

  • Bone folder£3–5

    A smooth, flat tool for creasing fold lines cleanly. Also useful for burnishing edges. Traditionally made from actual bone, now often Teflon or plastic.

The Workshop

£40+

For when this has become more than a weekend project.

Additional cost on top of Tiers 1 & 2.

  • Dedicated leather knife (round or head knife)£15–30

    Beautiful, sweeping cuts with practice. Not essential for notebook covers, but if you’re branching into bags or belts, this is your next tool.

  • Self-healing cutting mat (A2 size)£15–20

    Large enough for the biggest covers (B5, A4) with room to spare. The grid lines help with alignment and squaring up.

  • Leather skiver£10–15

    Thins the edges of leather for neater, flatter folds — particularly useful if you’re working with thicker hides.

  • Mallet + drive punch set£15–20

    A rawhide mallet and a set of drive punches (the kind you hit with a hammer) give you the most consistent, cleanest holes.

Leather

Vegetable-tanned leather in 2mm thickness is ideal for notebook covers. 1.2mm and above works fine — thinner leather is easier to fold, thicker leather gives more structure. Full grain gives the best patina over time. Start with a panel — you don’t need a full side.

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